CATEGORY HUB · 43 ARTICLES
Garment Construction
Pattern, seam, hem, and assembly
From flat fabric to 3D garment: pattern making, seam types, hem finishes, fasteners, and assembly sequences. The engineering of how a T-shirt, jean, or jacket is actually built.
01
Essential reading
Start here. The most important articles that explain the category to a textile engineer in one sitting.
Garment Construction
Appliqué and Patchwork
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
Gathering and Shirring
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
Pleats and Tucks
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
Dart Manipulation
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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02
More from this category
More specific processes, techniques, and topic deep-dives.
Garment Construction
Empire Waist Construction
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
Princess Seams
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
Bias Cut Construction
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
A-Line Silhouette Construction
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
Ruching and Smocking
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
Drape Construction: Cowl, Waterfall
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
Quilting Techniques
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
Garment Sizing Standards
Appliqué attaches fabric shapes to a base textile using a stitch length of 2.0 to...
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Garment Construction
Yoke Construction
A yoke is a shaped, often curved pattern piece positioned at the shoulder, upper chest,...
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Garment Construction
Embroidery Construction
Embroidery construction at industrial scale relies on a 40-weight polyester embroidery thread that delivers a...
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Garment Construction
Bespoke Tailoring vs Made-to-Measure
Bespoke tailoring produces a garment from a unique paper pattern drafted from 30 or more...
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Garment Construction
Tailoring Techniques
A tailored jacket uses between 2,500 and 3,000 hand stitches per panel, with side seam...
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Garment Construction
Woven Garment Construction
Woven garment construction is the engineered assembly of cut panels from a stable, low-stretch fabric...
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Garment Construction
Garment Measurement Charts
A standard garment measurement chart specifies at least 20 to 32 body landmarks captured by...
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04
Frequently asked questions
What is the most common seam type?
Superimposed seam (ISO 1.01.xx), used in roughly 80% of garment construction. The lockstitch (ISO 301) is the most common stitch type, used in 80% of sewn seams.
What is seam allowance?
The width of fabric between the seam line and the cut edge. Standard allowances: 10 mm (0.4 in) for woven shirts, 7-10 mm for knits, 5-7 mm for activewear.
What is the difference between lockstitch and chainstitch?
Lockstitch (301) uses two threads (top + bobbin) interlocked in the middle. Strong, fast, but not stretchy. Chainstitch (401) uses one thread forming a chain on the underside. More elastic, used in knits.
What is overlock vs coverstitch?
Overlock (serger) cuts and sews in one pass with 3-4 threads, used for seaming and edge finishing knits. Coverstitch uses 2 needles in parallel for a flat hem on knits (T-shirts, leggings, activewear).
What is the SAM for a basic T-shirt?
Standard Allowed Minutes: 12-18 minutes for a basic men's T-shirt at an efficient factory. 18-25 for a polo. 30-45 for jeans. 90-180 for a tailored jacket. SAM drives CMT cost.
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