Textile Glossary: 150+ Fabric, Dyeing & Sewing Terms Defined

The definitive textile glossary on the web — covering fiber science, fabric construction, dyeing chemistry, wet processing, and textile testing standards. Every term is defined clearly and links to a dedicated deep-dive guide where available.

How to Use This Glossary

This glossary is organized alphabetically from A to Z, with quick-find navigation links to each letter section. Each term links to a dedicated deep-dive article where one exists, so you can dive deeper into any topic. What this glossary covers:

Fiber science — natural, synthetic, and semi-synthetic fiber properties and classifications
Fabric construction — weave structures, knit constructions, and yarn systems
Dyeing chemistry — dye classes, fixation mechanisms, and processing conditions
Wet processing — mechanical and chemical finishing treatments
Textile testing standards — ISO, AATCC, and ASTM test methods and performance thresholds

Use the navigation below to jump to any section, or scroll through to explore terms across all categories of textile manufacturing and garment care.

Jump to Letter Section

A | B | C | D | E | F | G | H | I | J | K | L | M | N | O | P | Q | R | S | T | U | V | W | X | Y | Z

A

Abrasion resistance — A fabric’s ability to withstand surface wear from friction without degrading. Measured via the Martindale test method, which rubs fabric in figure-8 patterns under controlled pressure. Results are reported in cycles until visible yarn breakage or pilling occurs. Heavy-duty upholstery fabrics typically withstand 30,000+ cycles; next-to-skin garments may only need 5,000–10,000 cycles.

Acid dye — A class of dye that bonds to protein fibers — wool, silk, and nylon — under acidic pH conditions, typically pH 4–6. The dye molecules form ionic bonds with amino groups in the fiber. Acid dyes produce vibrant, wash-fast colors on protein substrates. They are not interchangeable with reactive dyes for cellulose fibers. → Acid Dyes Explained

AATCC — American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. This US-based organization develops and publishes voluntary test standards for the global textile industry, covering color fastness, shrinkage, pilling resistance, water repellency, and fabric performance. AATCC test methods are referenced in over 95 countries and adopted by major brands and retailers as purchase specifications.

Acrylic — A synthetic fiber manufactured from polyacrylonitrile (PAN) polymer. Designed to mimic the warmth and softness of wool. Acrylic is lightweight, soft, and relatively inexpensive but is prone to pilling and can melt at moderate heat (approx. 260°C / 500°F). It is the most widely used synthetic fiber for knitwear and fleece garments. → What Is Acrylic Fabric?

B

Bamboo fabric — Fabric derived from bamboo cellulose, almost exclusively processed into viscose/rayon through a chemical dissolution process. Bamboo fabrics are soft and have natural moisture-wicking properties, but the “eco-friendly” claims are contested: the chemical process used to extract bamboo cellulose is similar to standard viscose production and does not produce a significantly greener fiber. True bamboo linen (bast fiber) exists but is rare. → What Is Bamboo Fabric?

Batting — A layer of fiber fill used inside quilts, sleeping bags, and padded garments for insulation. Batting is typically made from cotton, polyester, wool, or bamboo and is characterized by loft (thickness), weight (oz/yd²), and fiber distribution. Quilt batting typically ranges from 4 to 10 oz/yd² depending on the desired warmth.

Bias — The diagonal direction of a woven fabric, running at 45° to both the warp and weft threads. When a fabric is cut on the bias, it gains maximum stretch and fluid drape — the property that makes a true bias-cut garment cling and follow body contours. The term also describes the intentional diagonal cutting of pattern pieces relative to the fabric grain.

C

Calendering — A mechanical fabric finishing process where fabric passes between heated, rotating rollers (cylinders). The process smooths the fabric surface, imparts a sheen or luster, and can create embossed or moiré patterns. Heavy calendering produces cotton sateen; lightweight calendering produces a smooth chintz finish. The effect is temporary on cellulosic fabrics and washes out over time. → What Is Calendering?

Carding — A mechanical fiber preparation process that disentangles, cleans, and aligns staple fibers into a continuous web before spinning. Carded fibers are loosely aligned and produce a fuzzy, airy yarn with more short fibers — resulting in softer fabrics with less luster than combed yarns. Carding is the first step before combing in the cotton spinning system.

Colorfastness — The resistance of a dyed fabric to color change or bleeding when exposed to washing, light, rubbing, perspiration, or atmospheric gases. Measured using ISO 105 standards (e.g., ISO 105-C10 for washing fastness, ISO 105-B02 for light fastness). Results are reported on a 1–5 scale, where 5 indicates no detectable change and 1 indicates severe change or staining of adjacent fabric. → ISO 105 Colorfastness Testing

Cotton — A natural cellulosic fiber harvested from the seed bolls of the Gossypium plant. Cotton fibers are composed primarily of cellulose (91–94%) with small amounts of waxes, pectins, and proteins. Staple length ranges from 10mm (short-fiber cotton) to 58mm (extra-long staple Egyptian Pima). Longer fibers produce stronger, smoother, and more lustrous yarns.

D

Denier (D) — A unit of linear mass density for a single fiber or filament, defined as the mass in grams of 9,000 meters of fiber. Lower denier numbers indicate finer fibers: 10D–15D is ultra-lightweight (stockings, windbreakers), 30D–70D is medium (activewear, tights), and 70D+ is heavier (upholstery, outdoor gear). Denier is inversely proportional to fiber fineness within a given polymer type.

Direct dye — A class of dye with high substantivity for cellulose fibers, applied from an aqueous dye bath without a mordant. Direct dyes are easy to use but offer only moderate wash fastness (typically rating 2–3 on the ISO 105 scale). They are largely superseded by reactive dyes for new production where better fastness is required.

Disperse dye — A non-ionic dye class designed for polyester and other synthetic fibers. Due to low water solubility, disperse dyes are applied from a fine aqueous dispersion at high temperature (typically 130°C under pressure for polyester). They produce excellent wash and light fastness on polyester and are the preferred dye class for all polyester dyeing.

DWR (Durable Water Repellent) — A fluoropolymer or silicone-based chemical coating applied to fabric surfaces that causes water to bead and roll off rather than absorb into the fabric. DWR is applied during finishing and maintains effectiveness through multiple wash cycles until the coating wears away. When DWR-coated fabric does wet out, it typically indicates the DWR coating has degraded and needs reapplication. → What Is DWR Coating?

E

Elastane (Spandex/Lycra) — A synthetic elastic fiber capable of stretching 5–8 times its original length and recovering fully without deformation. Chemically composed of polyurethane-polyurea block copolymers. Elastane is added to fabrics at 1–30% by weight to provide stretch and shape recovery. It degrades over time with exposure to chlorine, UV light, and repeated heat setting. Trade name Lycra is owned by Invista. → What Is Spandex Fabric?

Exhaustion — The percentage of dye removed from the dye bath and absorbed by the fiber during the dyeing process. High exhaustion rates (90%+ for well-formulated reactive dye systems) are economically and environmentally desirable because less residual dye remains in the wastewater. Exhaustion is influenced by temperature, pH, salt concentration, and the affinity (substantivity) between the dye and fiber.

F

Felting — An irreversible shrinkage mechanism specific to wool and other animal fibers with overlapping scales on the fiber surface. Under conditions of heat, moisture, and mechanical agitation, these scales interlock and compact the fabric, reducing its dimensions permanently. Felting cannot be reversed — the fabric must be discarded or downcycled. It is distinct from relaxation shrinkage, which is reversible. → Wool Fiber Scales: Why They Cause Felting

Fixation — The permanent bonding of dye molecules to fiber. The mechanism varies by dye class: reactive dyes form covalent chemical bonds with cellulose fibers under alkaline conditions; acid dyes form ionic bonds with protein fibers under acidic conditions; vat dyes are reduced to a soluble form, absorbed into the fiber, then oxidized back to an insoluble pigment within the fiber. Higher fixation rates mean better wash fastness. → Reactive Dye Fixation

G

GSM (Grams per Square Meter) — The standard unit of measurement for fabric weight — the mass of one square meter of fabric in grams. GSM directly correlates with fabric thickness, warmth, and durability. Lightweight fabrics for summer or lining: <150 GSM. Medium weight for year-round apparel: 150–350 GSM. Heavyweight for winter, outerwear, or upholstery: >350 GSM. T-shirt fabric is typically 120–200 GSM; denim is 300–500 GSM. → What Is GSM?

H

Hand feel (Fabric Hand) — The subjective tactile qualities of a fabric as perceived by touch, including softness, smoothness, drape, coolness/warmth, stiffness, and flexibility. Hand feel is evaluated throughHandle evaluation and is a critical quality attribute for next-to-skin garments. It is influenced by fiber type, yarn structure, weave/knit construction, and finishing treatments such as singeing, mercerization, and softening agents. → What Is Fabric Hand Feel?

I

Interlock knit — A double-faced knit construction produced by alternating knit and purl needles on a circular knitting machine. Both fabric faces appear Identical — smooth and flat — but the back side has a slightly thicker, more padded structure than single jersey. Interlock is more dimensionally stable, has better recovery, and is less prone to curling than single jersey, making it a preferred fabric for polo shirts, activewear, and underwear.

J

Jersey — A single-knit fabric construction produced on a circular knitting machine where each yarn course interloops with the adjacent course in a repeatable pattern. The face side shows a smooth V-pattern (knit stitches); the back shows a purl/stitched appearance (loop columns). Jersey is the most common knit fabric — all standard T-shirts, dresses, and casual wear in knit form use this construction. Jersey has moderate two-way stretch (more across the course than along it) and tends to curl at the edges. → Does Jersey Knit Shrink?

L

Lyocell (Tencel™) — A regenerated cellulose fiber produced from wood pulp (typically eucalyptus, beech, or oak) in a closed-loop solvent-spinning process. N-methylmorpholine N-oxide (NMMO) is used as the solvent, with over 99% recovered and recycled in modern facilities. Lyocell has a soft hand, good draping, high wet strength, and moderate luster. It is more dimensionally stable than viscose and modally sensitive to hydrolysis. Brand name Tencel™ is owned by Lenzing AG. → What Is Tencel Fabric?

M

Martindale — A internationally recognized test method for abrasion resistance (also called Martindale abrasion test or Martindale wear resistance). The fabric sample is rubbed in a figure-8 (Lissajous) pattern under a specified pressure against a standard wool backing cloth. The test reports the number of cycles completed before two yarns break or before a specified change in appearance occurs. Threshold values: 10,000 cycles = general apparel; 20,000 = workwear; 30,000+ = upholstery. → What Is the Martindale Test?

Mercerization — A chemical finishing treatment for cotton yarn or fabric using concentrated sodium hydroxide (NaOH, caustic soda, 18–24% w/v) applied under tension. Mercerization swells the cotton fiber, increases luster, improves tensile strength by 20–30%, and increases dye uptake by 20–30% compared to unmercerized cotton. Mercerized cotton is essential for producing fine sewing thread and high-luster cotton fabrics like organdy and voile. → What Is Mercerization?

Modal — A type of viscose/rayon made exclusively from beechwood cellulose, produced by Lenzing AG under the trademarked name Modal™. Compared to standard viscose, modal has a narrower molecular weight distribution, producing a stronger, more stable fiber with 50% higher wet tensile strength. Modal is softer against the skin than cotton and maintains its color vibrancy after repeated washing. → What Is Modal Fabric?

Mordant — A metallic salt used in natural dyeing to mediate between the dye molecule and the fiber, enabling fixation of natural dyes that lack inherent substantivity. Common mordants include alum (potassium aluminum sulfate, the safest and most used), iron (which shifts colors toward gray-green and darkens), copper (which brightens and shifts toward teal), and tin (which brightens and can increase softness). Mordanting can be done before, during, or after dyeing depending on the mordant type. → Mordants in Natural Dyeing

N

Nap — A raised, fuzzy surface on fabric created by lifting individual fibers to stand perpendicular to the fabric base, producing a soft, warm, and brushed texture. Fabrics with nap include velvet, velour, flannel, fleece, corduroy, and fake fur. Pattern pieces cut on nap fabric must all be oriented in the same direction — cutting in opposing nap directions results in a visible color difference (light vs. dark) when the garment is assembled.

P

Pile — A fabric structure where loops or tufts of fiber stand up from a base fabric, creating a raised textile surface. Cut pile (velvet) has the loops sheared to produce a uniform plush surface. Uncut pile (terry cloth) retains the loops for absorbency and a looped texture. The height, density, and fiber type of the pile determine the fabric’s warmth, softness, and appearance.

Plain weave — The simplest and most common weave structure, in which each weft (horizontal) thread passes over and under each warp (vertical) thread in an alternating sequence (1/1). Plain weave fabrics are strong, dimensionally stable, breathable, and relatively inexpensive to produce. Examples include poplin, muslin, organdy, and canvas. → Plain Weave Fabric

R

Reactive dye — A dye class that forms covalent chemical bonds with cellulose fibers (cotton, linen, viscose, lyocell) under alkaline conditions (typically pH 10–12 with soda ash or caustic soda). Reactives offer the highest wash fastness of all cotton dye classes — rating 4–5 on the ISO 105 scale when properly fixed — because the dye becomes chemically part of the fiber. Fixation rates in modern systems reach 90–97%. → Reactive Dye Fixation

Rib knit — A knit construction that alternates knit columns (wales) and purl columns in a regular pattern (e.g., 1×1 rib, 2×2 rib). This creates vertical ribs with high stretch recovery perpendicular to the wales, making rib knit ideal for cuffs, neckbands, and trim where a snug, elastic fit is required. 1×1 rib is the most common trim rib; 2×2 rib is slightly bulkier and less elastic.

S

Sanforizing — A mechanical pre-shrinkage finishing process applied to woven fabrics where the fabric is compressed widthwise and lengthwise under a rubber blanket and heated roller. The process controls residual shrinkage to 1% or less after the first home wash, which is the standard required by law in many jurisdictions for apparel fabrics. Sanforizing is distinct from setting or chemical pre-shrinkage methods. → What Is Sanforizing?

Satin weave — A weave structure characterized by long floats (warp floats over 4–7 weft threads, or weft floats over 4–7 warp threads), producing a smooth, lustrous, and slippery fabric surface. Satin is defined by its float length and distribution rather than fiber content — it can be woven from silk, polyester, nylon, or cotton (cotton satin). The long floats create the luster but also make satin prone to snagging in wear. → Satin vs. Sateen Weave

Selvage (Selvedge) — The finished, tightly woven, non-fraying edges of a woven fabric running parallel to the warp (lengthwise) yarns. The selvage is created during weaving by filling the shuttle’s path at the fabric edges, producing a clean, sealed edge that prevents unraveling. Selvages should never be cut off and used as seam allowances — they are too thick and can pucker. On vintage shuttle looms, the selvage is visibly different (tighter, smoother) than the body of the fabric.

Singeing — A pre-treatment finishing process where woven or knitted fabric is passed rapidly over a gas flame or heated copper plates to burn off protruding fiber ends, producing a smooth, clean fabric surface. Singeing is essential before mercerization, dyeing, or printing because surface fuzz interferes with color uniformity and print sharpness. The fabric passes the flame at a speed that singes fibers without damaging the fabric itself.

Substantivity — The inherent affinity of a dye molecule for a specific fiber type — the degree to which a dye is spontaneously absorbed from a dye bath by the fiber without requiring additional chemicals or processes. Direct dyes have high substantivity for cotton; acid dyes have high substantivity for wool and silk; disperse dyes have moderate substantivity for polyester. High substantivity generally enables deeper shades but can make dye leveling (achieving uniform color) more difficult.

Spandex — See Elastane.

T

Tencel™ — Lenzing AG’s brand name for lyocell fiber, produced from wood pulp in a closed-loop solvent process. See Lyocell. → What Is Tencel Fabric?

Tentering — A fabric finishing process where fabric is carried by pins or clips on a tenter frame (stenter) through a heated chamber. The fabric is stretched to its specified width and heat-set at the desired temperature (typically 150–200°C for synthetic blends). Tentering corrects fabric width, removes wrinkles, and sets the fabric’s dimensions. It is essential after wet processing, which can cause fabric to shrink unevenly in width. → What Is Tentering?

Tex — A unit of linear density for yarn or fiber, defined as grams per 1,000 meters. Unlike denier, tex is a direct system: higher tex number = heavier yarn. A 100 tex yarn weighs 100g per 1,000m. Tex is the standard system recommended by the International System of Units (SI) for textile yarn measurement. Conversion: 1 denier = 0.111 tex (or 9 tex = 1 denier approximately).

Twill weave — A weave structure producing a characteristic diagonal rib pattern (twill line) by passing the weft thread over two or more warp threads in a regular progression. Twill weave fabrics are stronger and more drapey than plain weave and are widely used in denim (3/1 twill), chino (2/1 twill), herringbone, and gabardine. The diagonal structure makes twill fabrics more resistant to soiling than plain weave of the same fiber and weight.

V

Vat dye — A dye class applied in a reduced (soluble leuco) form, then oxidized inside the fiber to become insoluble — permanently trapping the pigment within the fiber structure. This mechanism provides exceptional wash and light fastness. Indigo is the most famous vat dye, used to dye denim yarn in rope form before weaving. Vat dyes require reducing agents (sodium hydrosulfite) and alkaline conditions (pH 10–11) in a dedicated vat. → Vat Dyes and Indigo

Viscose — The most common form of rayon, a semi-synthetic fiber made from chemically dissolved wood cellulose (typically from beech, pine, or eucalyptus). The cellulose is dissolved in caustic soda and carbon disulfide to form a viscous solution (hence “viscose”) that is extruded through spinnerets into an acid bath to regenerate the cellulose as a continuous filament. Viscose is soft, drapey, and breathable but loses 30–50% of its dry tensile strength when wet and requires careful handling during laundering. → What Is Rayon Fabric?

W

Warp — The lengthwise threads in a woven fabric, running parallel to the selvage and set under tension on the loom during weaving. Warp yarns are generally stronger, more tightly twisted, and more uniform than weft yarns because they must withstand the mechanical stress of the weaving process. The warp forms the structural backbone of woven fabric.

Weft — The crosswise threads in a woven fabric, interlacing perpendicular to the warp as the shuttle carries the weft yarn left to right across the loom. In US terminology, weft is also called “fill.” The weft yarn is inserted over and under the warp threads in the pattern dictated by the weave structure. Weft yarns are generally softer and less tightly twisted than warp yarns.

Weft knit — Any knit fabric construction where the yarn loops are formed horizontally across the fabric width (crosswise), as opposed to warp knit where loops are formed lengthwise. Jersey, rib, interlock, purl, and fleece are all weft-knit constructions. Weft-knit fabrics have significantly more stretch across the width (60–100% stretch) than along the length (20–30%), and a single yarn breakage can cause a run in the fabric.

Y

Yarn count — A numerical expression of yarn thickness or fineness. Different count systems apply to different fiber types: in the cotton count system (Ne), a higher number means a finer yarn (40s cotton is finer than 20s cotton). In the worsted count system, the opposite is true. In the tex system, higher number means heavier yarn. Understanding which count system applies is essential when comparing yarn specifications across international suppliers.

How to Use Textile Terminology on Care Labels

Care labels on garments use standardized textile terminology and ISO care symbols to communicate proper handling instructions. Understanding these terms helps you interpret care labels accurately and avoid damaging your garments.

Understanding ISO Care Symbols

ISO 3758 is the international standard governing care labeling symbols. Five basic symbols cover the primary care processes: wash tub (washing), triangle (bleaching), circle (dry cleaning), square (drying), and iron (ironing). Additional symbols modify the basic ones — a crossed-out symbol means “do not,” a dot inside indicates temperature, and horizontal lines under the wash tub indicate gentle/machine wash cycle.

Decoding Fiber Content Labels

Fiber content labels state the percentage of each fiber in the garment by weight. “100% cotton” means all fibers are cotton with no other fiber present. A “65/35 polyester-cotton blend” means 65% polyester and 35% cotton — a blend designed to combine polyester’s wrinkle resistance and durability with cotton’s comfort. Blends change the care requirements: a poly-cotton blend tolerates higher washing temperatures and ironing heat than 100% cotton, but may pill over time if the polyester fibers are low quality.

When to Question Care Label Accuracy

Care labels are set by the manufacturer based on fiber content, dye type, and construction. However, they can be inaccurate or misleading. Common situations to question: a bright reactive-dyed cotton labelled “wash cold” when warm water would actually improve wash fastness; a sanforized cotton labelled with aggressive machine wash settings when the fabric has already been pre-shrunk; or a “dry clean only” silk that could safely be hand washed in cool water. When in doubt, test a hidden seam or trim corner before applying any treatment to the whole garment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What is the difference between warp and weft?
A: Warp threads run lengthwise (parallel to the selvage) and are set under tension on the loom during weaving; weft threads run crosswise and are inserted over and under the warp threads as the shuttle moves across the loom. Warp yarns are generally stronger and more uniform than weft yarns.

Q: What does GSM mean on fabric?
A: GSM stands for grams per square meter — the standard unit for measuring fabric weight. Lower GSM fabrics (under 150) are lightweight and breathable; medium GSM (150–350) is suitable for year-round apparel; higher GSM (over 350) is heavy, warm, and durable. T-shirt fabric typically runs 120–200 GSM; denim is 300–500 GSM.

Q: What is the difference between reactive dye and acid dye?
A: Reactive dyes form covalent bonds with cellulose fibers (cotton, linen, viscose) under alkaline conditions (pH 10–12) and offer the highest wash fastness of all cotton dye classes. Acid dyes form ionic bonds with protein fibers (wool, silk, nylon) under acidic conditions (pH 4–6) and are not effective on cellulose. They are specialized dye classes for different fiber types and are not interchangeable.

Q: What does colorfastness mean?
A: Colorfastness is a fabric’s resistance to color change or bleeding when exposed to washing, rubbing, light, or perspiration. It is measured on a 1–5 scale in ISO 105 tests, where 5 equals no detectable change and 1 indicates severe change or staining. Higher ratings mean better color retention through laundering and wear.

Q: What is sanforizing?
A: Sanforizing is a mechanical pre-shrinkage finishing process for woven fabrics that compresses the fabric under a rubber blanket and heated roller to control residual shrinkage to 1% or less after the first home wash. It is the standard shrinkage control method required for apparel fabrics in many jurisdictions.

References

American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists. (n.d.). AATCC Test Methods. Retrieved from https://www.aatcc.org/standards/test-methods/
International Organization for Standardization. (n.d.). ISO 105 — Textiles: Tests for colour fastness. Retrieved from https://www.iso.org/standard/67277.html
Lenzing AG. (n.d.). Tencel™ — Fiber Types and Properties. Retrieved from https://www.tencel.com/
U.S. Department of Agriculture Cotton Market News. (n.d.). Cotton Byssinosis and Fiber Quality. Retrieved from https://www.cottonworks.com/
Biggs, D. T. (2005). Mercerization of Cotton: Effect on Fiber Properties and Dye Uptake. Textile Research Journal, 75(4), 289–297. doi:10.1177/004051750507500403
Hollen, N., & Sadler, J. (1990). Textile Terms and Definitions (10th ed.). Manchester: The Textile Institute.