CATEGORY HUB · 2 ARTICLES
Garment Construction
Pattern, seam, hem, and assembly
From flat fabric to 3D garment: pattern making, seam types, hem finishes, fasteners, and assembly sequences. The engineering of how a T-shirt, jean, or jacket is actually built.
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Essential reading
Start here. The most important articles that explain the category to a textile engineer in one sitting.
Garment Construction
Garment Construction: Complete Guide to Pattern, Seam, and Hem
What is garment construction? Garment construction is the process of cutting fabric pieces and joining...
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Garment Construction
Seam Strength Testing
What is garment construction? Garment construction is the process of cutting fabric pieces and joining...
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Frequently asked questions
What is the most common seam type?
Superimposed seam (ISO 1.01.xx), used in roughly 80% of garment construction. The lockstitch (ISO 301) is the most common stitch type, used in 80% of sewn seams.
What is seam allowance?
The width of fabric between the seam line and the cut edge. Standard allowances: 10 mm (0.4 in) for woven shirts, 7-10 mm for knits, 5-7 mm for activewear.
What is the difference between lockstitch and chainstitch?
Lockstitch (301) uses two threads (top + bobbin) interlocked in the middle. Strong, fast, but not stretchy. Chainstitch (401) uses one thread forming a chain on the underside. More elastic, used in knits.
What is overlock vs coverstitch?
Overlock (serger) cuts and sews in one pass with 3-4 threads, used for seaming and edge finishing knits. Coverstitch uses 2 needles in parallel for a flat hem on knits (T-shirts, leggings, activewear).
What is the SAM for a basic T-shirt?
Standard Allowed Minutes: 12-18 minutes for a basic men's T-shirt at an efficient factory. 18-25 for a polo. 30-45 for jeans. 90-180 for a tailored jacket. SAM drives CMT cost.
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