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Denim

Indigo dyeing and denim manufacturing

The chemistry of indigo, the weaving of denim twill, the wash effects that create fade patterns, and the modern sustainable denim movement. From indigo vats to laser finishes.

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JUMP TO: Indigo chemistry Denim weaving Wash effects Sustainable denim

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Frequently asked questions

What is denim made of?

Twill-weave fabric typically 100% cotton. The warp is indigo-dyed blue; the weft is undyed white. The blue-out, white-in is the defining characteristic.

What is the difference between raw and pre-washed denim?

Raw denim (rigid) is unwashed and shrinks 5-10% on first wash. Pre-washed is industrially washed and pre-shrunk. Raw fades more dramatically; pre-washed fades less.

What is selvedge denim?

Woven on shuttle looms (or modern equivalents with selvedge attachment). The self-finished edge is tight and does not unravel. Narrower width, more expensive, premium product.

How is denim dyed?

With indigo, a vat dye. Indigo is reduced to its soluble leuco form, applied to the cotton warp, then oxidized by air to reform insoluble blue. Repeated dip-and-oxidize cycles (6-12 boxes) build the indigo color in multiple thin layers, giving denim its characteristic fade.

How much water does a pair of jeans use?

Conventional denim: 1,500-7,500 L per pair. Sustainable programs target < 500 L via closed-loop water recycling and organic cotton. Some laser-only programs use < 100 L per pair.

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