So, you have got yourself the best serger for multi-layer fabrics, and now you want to learn how to sew spandex with a serger? Well, allow us to state that you came to the right place.
One of our editors said his jeans started to roll down at the waist. And as a solution, we found that sewing spandex at the waist would be perfect.
We were lost in the very beginning. But through vigorous research, we have mastered the process.
Well, our primary goal here is to make sure you do not struggle like us. And show you exactly how you can properly sew spandex using a serger.
Steps to Follow to Sew Spandex
You might have already read our how to sew knits with a serger guide. There we have tried our level best to keep things simple. And we are going to follow the same thing here. That being said, let us get to describing the steps you need to follow to sew spandex.
Step 1: Cutting
Like our guide on how to sew spandex shorts, the first step would be to start cutting the spandex. Here, first, let the spandex rest for a while after taking it the package off. This makes the material rest a relax a bit and let go of any of the creases that might have formed. Also, make sure that it lays flat for a while.
Then, get a pair of sharp scissors or a quilting cutting machine. Ensure that the scissors are sharp enough, like the best scissors for cutting rag quilts, or else it will just burr the edges, making it hard to match the pattern with clothing items. Then test if the pins and check if they leave any marks on the fabric. If it leaves marks, opt for a different pattern.
After that, start the cutting. Here, cut one piece at a time. That will ensure that the amount of wastage is a bare minimum. It will also make sure that you can cut each of the pieces of the spandex perfectly. Lastly, check the direction of the stretch. If the stretch is not in the direction of the pattern of the fabric, rotate the pieces.
Step 2: Check the Stretch Level
Before starting the stitching process, ensure that the seams have the same stretching amount. If the stretch qualities of the seams do not match with the fabric, the end results are not going the be that eye-catching. Also, the stitches will have a higher chance of breaking if the stretching amount does not match.
In addition to that, the unmatched stretch level can make the clothing uncomfortable to wear. And if you find that the stretch level is too off, we would recommend getting a new lot of spandex. Here, keep the stretch level of the fabric in mind and choose one accordingly.
On the other hand, you can go the opposite route and change the fabric entirely. However, this will result in too much wastage of fabrics. Also, it will be easy to match spandex with fabric than matching fabric with spandex. So, we would recommend getting new spandex and starting from step 1.
Also, the process is similar if you’re using a fabric that contains spandex in it. If you’re wondering, does 95% polyester 5% spandex stretch, the answer is yes.
Step 3: Stitching
A proper serger, like the heavy duty serger for denim, can just seam the edges without needing any additional stitches, making this process easier. However, that will not be the case for most of the machines. But one thing that most of the serger, including affordable sergers, will have is built-in elasticity, and you can easily sew the spandex with that.
While you are sewing the seams, in a gentle manner, stretch the fabric. This motion will ensure that the fabric achieves the maximum level of stretchiness. And with the maximum level of stretchiness, the clothing would be comfortable to wear, and it will be highly elastic at the same time.
On that note, you are going to use the serger to sew all the parts except the legs and neck. If you sew those using the serger, the sewing will not be proper. And without having proper sewing, the spandex will not be in those places properly, which will make those spots pretty weak.
Step 4: Use the Regular Sewing Machine
After working on the rest of the parts, you need to move on sewing the legs and the neck area. And for this, you would require a regular sewing machine. But the best sewing machine for stretch fabrics will be our recommendation. That machine will ensure that sewing is done properly. However, do take your time while using the regular machine because it will not work as fast as a serger.
In addition to that, do stretch the fabric as you did on the previous method. This will enable the areas to get the most out of the spandex.
We hope that it is pretty clear that learning how to sew spandex with a serger is not as hard as you once thought it was. You can apply the same process when learning how to make a skirt bigger. Also, hopefully, the steps we included in this article were easy to follow, and you were able to end up with a perfectly sewn spandex after following them.