Yarn Count | Different Counting Systems
Yarn count is an expression that indicates the fineness or coarseness of threads and yarns — it determines the size, thickness, or thinness of a particular thread. Yarn count establishes either the weight of yarn per unit length or the length of yarn per unit weight, depending on the counting system used. Direct counting systems fix the unit length and measure variable weight (yarn gets coarser as count increases), while indirect counting systems fix the unit weight and measure variable length (yarn gets finer as count increases). This foundational knowledge is essential for anyone working in textile production, from selecting the best weaving loom to operating knitting machines with precision.
By the end of this article, you will understand what yarn count is, why it matters in handling threads and yarns, how the classification systems work, how to convert between different counting systems, and which machines are used to measure it.
Understanding Yarn Count: Definition and Significance
Quick Reference: Direct vs. Indirect Counting Systems
| Direct Counting System | Indirect Counting System | |
|---|---|---|
| Unit Fixed | Length (e.g., 1,000 m, 9,000 m) | Weight (e.g., 1 lb, 1 kg) |
| What Varies | Weight | Length |
| As Count Increases | Yarn becomes coarser / thicker | Yarn becomes finer / thinner |
| Common Systems | Tex, Denier, Jute (lbs/spyndle) | English Cotton (Ne), Metric (Nm), Worsted (Nw) |
Why Yarn Count Matters in Textile Production
- Differentiates between finer and coarser yarns in production
- Determines the thickness and thinness of the yarn before processing
- Calculates the weight per unit length of the yarn
- Determines the length per unit weight of the yarn
- Predicts the GSM (Grams per Square Meter) of the finished fabric
- Establishes the linear density of the yarn for quality control
Classification of Yarn Counting Systems
The yarn counting system divides into two main categories: the direct counting system and the indirect counting system.
In the direct counting system, the unit length of yarn is fixed and the weight is variable. In the indirect yarn counting system, the unit weight of thread is fixed and the length of thread is variable. The classification is as follows:
Direct Counting System: Fixed Unit Length, Variable Weight
Key direct counting systems used in the textile industry are described below.
Tex
Tex is the universal yarn counting system defined by the International System of Units. In this system, the length of yarn is fixed at 1,000 metres. The weight of 1,000 metres of yarn in grams equals the Tex count. For example, a 20 Tex count means 1,000 metres of yarn weighs 20 grams.
Tex applies primarily to yarns composed of natural fibres. Three derivatives of the Tex system exist: DeciTex (DTex = tex × 10, grams per 10,000 metres), MiliTex (MTex, grams per 1,000,000 metres), and KiloTex (KTex, tex × 1,000, grams per 1,000 metres).
Denier
The Denier counting system is used for yarn types made from finer fibres. The weight of 9,000 metres of yarn in grams equals the Denier count. A 20 Denier yarn means 9,000 metres of yarn weighs 20 grams. The Denier system applies to synthetic or man-made filament yarns. Fibre below 1 Denier is classified as microfiber.
Jute Counting System (lbs/spyndle)
In the Jute counting system, the fixed length is 14,400 yards and the weight unit is pounds. The weight of 14,400 yards of yarn in pounds equals the Jute count. Jute, flax, and hemp fibres are primarily handled in this counting system.
“In the direct counting system, as the count value increases, the yarn becomes coarser or thicker, and vice-versa.”
Indirect Counting System: Fixed Unit Weight, Variable Length
Key indirect counting systems used in the textile industry are described below.
English Cotton Count (Ne)
In the English Cotton Count system, hanks of 840 yards are prepared first. The number of hanks required to weigh 1 pound of yarn equals the English Count, denoted as Ne. This method is also known as the cotton counting system.
A 20 Ne yarn means 20 hanks of 840 yards each (totalling 16,800 yards) weigh exactly 1 pound.
Metric Count (Nm)
In this method, hanks of 1,000 metres are prepared. The number of hanks required to weigh 1 kilogram of yarn equals the Metric Count, denoted as Nm.
A 20 Nm yarn means 20 hanks of 1,000 metres each (totalling 20,000 metres) weigh exactly 1 kilogram.
Worsted Count (Nw)
In the Worsted Count system, hanks of 560 yards are prepared first. The number of hanks required to weigh 1 pound of yarn equals the Worsted Count, denoted as Nw. This method is also known as the Mohair counting system.
A 20 Nw yarn means 20 hanks of 560 yards each (totalling 11,200 yards) weigh exactly 1 pound.
“In the indirect counting system, as the count value increases, the yarn becomes finer or thinner, and vice-versa.”
Yarn Count Conversion System
Yarn counts convert between systems using established formulas. The following table provides key conversion factors used in the textile industry.
Standard Yarn Count Conversion Table
| From | To | Formula |
|---|---|---|
| Tex | DTex | Tex × 10 |
| Tex | Denier | Tex × 9 |
| Tex | English Cotton Count (Ne) | 590.5 ÷ Tex |
| Tex | Metric Count (Nm) | 1,000 ÷ Tex |
| Denier | English Cotton Count (Ne) | 5,314.9 ÷ Denier |
| Metric Count (Nm) | English Cotton Count (Ne) | Nm × 1.6934 |
| English Cotton (Ne) | Worsted (Nw) | Ne × 1.5 |
Practical example: 20 Tex = 180 Denier = 0.570 Jute Count = 29.5 Ne = 50 Nm = 44 Nw.
Yarn Count Measuring Instruments
Measuring yarn count requires two primary instruments: a wrap reel machine and a digital balance. A lea (120 yards) of yarn is wound using the wrap reel machine, then weighed on the digital balance. This reading is taken multiple times to ensure accuracy.
The formula for calculating yarn count in the English Count (Ne) or Cotton Count System is:
Ne = (L/l) / (W/w)
L = total length of sample
l = standard reference length (120 yards for one lea)
W = actual weight of sample
w = standard reference weight
Automated yarn count measurement systems are now widely available in modern textile laboratories. These instruments provide higher precision and faster results compared to manual wrap reel and balance methods.
Use our yarn count calculator for quick and accurate conversions between systems.
Quick Reference: Yarn Count Ranges by Application
| Application | Typical Yarn Count Range | Common Counting System |
|---|---|---|
| Lace and fine hosiery | 80s – 200s Ne | English Cotton Count |
| Shirting and bed linens | 20s – 60s Ne | English Cotton Count |
| Denim and canvas | 6s – 16s Ne | English Cotton Count |
| Worsted suitings | 36s – 80s Nw | Worsted Count |
| Woollen blankets | NeS 8s – 24s | Woollen Count (Yorkshire Skeins) |
| Linen for household textiles | 8s – 20s NeL | Linen Count (Lea) |
| Jute sacking and burlap | 6 – 14 lbs/spyndle | Jute Count |
| Microfiber fabrics | 0.1 – 1.0 Denier | Denier |
| Standard synthetic filament | 20 – 200 Denier | Denier |
Common Questions About Yarn Count
DTex and MTex: Derivatives of the Tex System
DTex (decitex) and MTex (militex) are derivatives of the Tex system. DTex represents the weight in decigrams of 10,000 metres of yarn, while MTex represents the weight in milligrams of 1,000,000 metres of yarn.
Does an Increase in Count Mean Finer Yarn?
Not always. In the indirect counting system (where unit weight is fixed), an increase in count means finer yarn. In the direct counting system (where unit length is fixed), an increase in count means thicker or coarser yarn. Understanding this distinction is essential for textile processing.
What is CN Tex (Breaking Length / RKM)?
CN Tex represents the breaking length of a yarn, expressed in kilometres. It is the specific length of yarn at which the yarn breaks under its own weight. CN Tex is also known as RKM (Reisskraftmasse or tensile strength per unit mass).
Bradford Count and Wool Fibre Quality
The Bradford Count (spinning count) estimates how many 560-yard hanks can be spun from one pound of cleaned, combed wool. Higher Bradford Count values indicate finer wool. Official USDA standards from 1968 assign specific fibre diameter ranges to each count: for example, 54s Bradford corresponds to 28.60–30.09 micrometres average fibre diameter.
| Bradford Count | Fibre Diameter (micrometres) |
|---|---|
| 46s | 37 µm |
| 48s | 35 µm |
| 56s | 28 µm |
| 60s | 23 µm |
| 64s | 21 µm |
| 66s/68s | 20 µm |
| 70s | 19 µm |
Final Words
Different applications require different yarn counts. The yarn count of woven hand embroidery fabric differs significantly from fabric repairing tapes. Understanding yarn counts enables you to become a better spinner with your Ashford Kiwi 3. Comprehensive knowledge of yarn count is of paramount importance for anyone working in textile production.
How Does Yarn Count Affect the Best Yarn Choice for Placemats?
Yarn count significantly influences the texture and durability of placemats, making it a key factor in selecting the best yarn for placemats. A higher yarn count in the indirect system produces finer, softer placemats, while a lower count provides a thicker, sturdier weave. Choose based on your style and functionality requirements for optimal results.
References
- Wikipedia. (n.d.). Spinning count – Bradford Count System. Wikimedia Foundation.
- Wikipedia. (n.d.). Units of textile measurement. Wikimedia Foundation.
- Wikipedia. (n.d.). Yarn – Definition, materials, and measurement. Wikimedia Foundation.
- USDA Agricultural Marketing Service. (1968). Official Standards for Wool and Wool-Top. United States Department of Agriculture.
