Sewing Thread Count Meaning | Ticket Number

Yarn or thread count expresses the numerical value of a yarn- and thread’s thickness or fineness. Count can be used for both thread and yarn. But due to the inherent difference in its structures, these have a different end-use. In fact, they are too dissimilar in structure. Sewing thread possesses a special number called ticket number which will be explained in this article.

Usually, different types of yarns are consumed for weaving and may perhaps be doubled or single while threads are habitually bring into play for sewing commitments and every time doubled with two or greater plies. During the usage of threads in apparel sewing, in addition to count we recurrently notice that thread merchants remark- thread’s ticket number. Well, as thread is comprised with two or more plies of yarn hence numbering method of thread is not identical like standard yarn count.

The 40 tex threads are typically used in most commercial sewing and embroidery machines. That’s why embroidery thread for brother machines is of this count.

History of Ticket Number

Acknowledgement of thread size i.e., ticket number, is experiencing a transition. Diverse categories of yarns had dissimilar counting labels. The Thread Institute approved a unanimous ticket numbering system on the basis of TEX counting system of yarn on 1^st January, 1980. This method is to be practiced deliberately by its fellow industrialists, officials and jobbers.

This implementation was approved by the American National Standards Institute (ANSI), the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) and American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) as well. As long as it’s not practiced abundantly throughout the global industry and approved by the diligence and clients, both the former methods and the TEX method will be used. For that reason this is essential to designate the numerous ticket numbering methods for suitable application.

What is Ticket Number?

A commercial counting method, typically applicable for sewing thread which expresses thread’s fineness or thickness is denoted as ticket number. Ticket numbers are akin to the indirect counting system. Here, it follows the fixed-weight method i.e., it demonstrates the numerical quantity of unit length that provides a fixed weight.

So just like indirect counting system, here with the rise of yarn count, the thread becomes thinner or finer. And subsequently, with the decrease of yarn count the thread becomes thicker or coarser. It is somewhat the thread producer’s reference value for the measurements of a certain sewing thread. Basically, the measurements or count of doubled yarn is expressed as thread’s ticket numbers.

Ticket number is measured through the resultant count, and then calculated again into 3- fold terms whatsoever the quantity of yarn plies doubled together to produce the thread. It is designated by tkt, Metric Count (Nm) or Cotton Count (Ne) etc.

Metric, cotton is the ticket numbering system applied in prêt-à-porter garments industry. Thread assortment for any particular purpose is established on several factors and ticket number is the major concern in attaining the efficient and aesthetics necessities of the final product.

Thread measurements are expressed through numerous numbers and numbering methods that are obtained by linking its unit length and mass. It is essential to recognize several counting methods and their associations in understanding thread size provisions.

Ticket (tkt) Numbering Systems

1. TEX Ticket Number

The measurement of spun yarn is conveyed by its ratio of unit length to weight. The greater the value, the thinner the thread. In the past, thread had been prepared only from a 3- ply spun yarns. For that reason, a thread of 30 3- ply (30/3) used to have a ticket number of 30, a thread of 45 3- ply (45/3) used to have a ticket number of 45, and so forth. Afterwards, the quantity of plies in sewing thread was prolonged to two, three, four, and six ply. A ticket number of 40 could therefore designate a 40 2- ply (40/2), a 40 3- ply (40/3), a 40 4- ply (40/4), or a 40 6- ply (40/6); even though the dia is same in all the cases  but for individual plies it gets finer every time. The larger quantity of doubled yarns suggest superior tensile strength of the thread.

Both letter and numbers are used to acknowledge the measurement of cotton sewing threads. For letter it is expressed in F to A. F signifies the thickest/ coarsest sewing thread where as A expresses the medium fine thread category, and then from 0 to 0000 is used for expressing the thinnest or finest quality of thread.

Sewing thread is available not only in staple fiber but also in filament fibre. The denier label had been used, and with the decrease of the number, the thread becomes even finer. The dimensions of filament sewing thread had been acknowledged by denier, excluding that the last digit of the thread count. For instance, a 160 denier thread had a ticket number 16.

2. Metric (Nm) Ticket Number

Secondly, there’s another popular method for thread numbering which follows the Metric method. This signifies the length amount of sewing thread present in every gram of thread. It is expressed in Nm Tkt. For instance, if thread count is 50/1 Nm, then it signifies that 50m length yarn weighs only 1 gram. Now, if we consider a multiple plies of yarn such as a 4-ply yarn then the ticket number will be 50/4 Nm. This signifies that the 50m length yarn weighs only 4 gram and so forth for other plies.

Double plied or 2-plied signifies two single yarn doubled together to make a ply yarn. By the same token, metric ticket number (Nm) 60/4 means 4 single yarns are doubled together to produce a thread, where each 60m length of single thread is 1 gram and the weight of 60m length of 4 plied threads is 4 gram.

Here, the formula is given for measuring the metric ticket number.

 Ticket Number (Metric) = Resultant Count × 3

To make it simple for understanding, the subsequent table provides few cases of conversion from Thread Number Expressed In Metric System to Ticket Number Expressed In Metric System

3. Cotton (Ne) Ticket Number

Last but not the least method of thread numbering is Cotton Ticket Number. It follows the English counting system or as we call it cotton counting system. Generally, for cotton threads this system is followed. For instance, Ne 50/3 signifies sewing thread is 3 plied and the weight of every ply of 50 hank in 840yds is 1 pound.

Cotton ticket counting has done by using the subsequent equation:

 Ticket Number (Cotton) = Resultant Count × 3

To make it simple for understanding, the subsequent table provides few cases of conversion from Thread Number Expressed In Cotton System to Ticket Number Expressed In Cotton System

Conversion of Ticket Number

TEX to Metric tkt no. = 1000 / TEX * 3

TEX to Cotton tkt no. = 590.54 / TEX * 3

Frequently Asked Questions

You might still have some queries regarding the sewing thread count. We have tried to provide the answers in this section.

1. Between yarn count and ticket number, which term is most widely applied in our industry?

Both are widely used in their different area of applications. Yarn count is normally used for spinning, weaving and knitting purposes but ticket number is used for sewing thread and it’s application is primarily in ready made garments industry.

2. Is yarn count always lower than ticket number for cotton?

No. For a single ply or double ply sewing thread, ticket number is always higher than the cotton yarn count. But when 3 or more plies are twisted together then thread number gets equal or lower than the yarn count.

3. Name a few sewing thread manufacturers who use ticket number on their threads.

There a few thread manufacturers who provide ticket numbers on their sewing thread. They are- Coats, Manila Bay, SHISHI, SANJIAN & LIDA etc.

References

1.  T. Karthik, P. Ganesan and D. Gopalakrishnan, Apparel Manufacturing Technology © 2017 by Taylor & Francis Group, LLC.

2. Coats Group plc 2020.

3. Manila Bay Thread Corporation.